Hwange holds one of the largest elephant populations on the continent. In the dry months they walk the old paths between pans — not as a spectacle, but as a weekly geography the rangers can read from dust, dung and the way the teak holds the heat.
A Sunday story from camp is not a checklist of sightings. It is where the matriarch took the herd at first light, which pan still held water, and which cutline the bulls used after the school groups had gone home.